Purchasing
a Boat.
If the itch is getting to you every time you drive by
a body of water, then you will be hooked the minute you set foot into a boat.
The benefits of owning your own boat out weigh the hassles of making appointments
for rentals, getting the timing right with a buddy who owns a boat or having
to stay at one lake all the time. First things first though, before you buy
your own, go out to your local marina and rent one for a few hours. Rentals
can run over $ 30 dollars an hour but it makes a great trainer for the novice.
Most marinas will walk you through the steps of pulling in and out of the dock,
how to tilt your engine etc.. If you enjoy renting a boat, then you are ready
to buy one.
Where
to Select, what to buy?.
If you are single, a PWC - Personal Watercraft may be
all you need. Commonly called Jet Ski, these units are fun to run and can seat
up to three people. Many states are enforcing tough regulations
to keep injuries down and safety up. They can be pulled behind virtually any
car with a bumper style hitch. If you are buying it for a family and like to
trailer to more than one lake,
an open bow 18 to 21 foot is ideal. Be sure to bring all the members along!
If you like to be on the water all the time, have a large towing vehicle or
plan on renting space (slip) at the marina, like to camp out, or have a large
family and have the desire to run the Great Lakes, a cuddy 21 to 26 foot is
ideal but much more expensive. A cuddy has a small cabin on 21 foot units,
just about enough to stretch out in, and the 23' to 26' units have full campers
including bathroom, mid berth, mini kitchenette, more storage and make a great
second home write off.. If you like to fish there are also plenty of fishing
vessels called "bass boats" waiting for the taking. Many bass boats
are slimmer and have outboard motors for reaching those shallow areas. Price
ranges new run between $ 6000 to $ 9000 for a personal watercraft, $11,000 to
$20,000 for open bow and bass boats, and $25,000 to $90,000 for popular cuddy
cabin units. If you are into financing the good news is your payments on a typical
$ 25,000 boat will run around $250 to $300 per month over 15 years. Cuddy units
with bathrooms and kitchens can be claimed as a second home at this time on
your tax return at this time. Once you have an idea about what size of boat
you want, the next item is where to shop. Be sure to visit Boating America's
Links to Great
Places for a link to various manufactures.
What
about used boats?
What do you look for in a used boat? What are the benefits?.
If you plan on buying a used boat, it is best to have a certified mechanic go
over it to make sure you are getting the best for your money. Never buy a used
boat without taking it on a test run. If no mechanic is available or you are
a grease monkey (have a few tools ready to go) then here are a few check points
to look for when buying a used one. After running on the lake on an
inboard or I/O (inboard outboard engine) inspect the engine compartment
for excessive exhaust fumes (where you may need to repair or replace the exhaust
manifold), check the oil, tilt oil level, blower motor on I/Os, spark
plugs (if possible get the compression specs from a local dealer and do a compression
check on each cylinder) and the out-drive oil reservoir (if equipped).
Also check around the prop housing (it is best to remove the prop and
look for signs of transmission oil leakage). Pull the drive plug, (the plug
just below and to the front of the prop on any type marine gear shaft) and drain
just a tiny bit of transmission oil, it should be a blue green color, and not
a milky color (milky color represents water seepage and could result in a costly
repair). While doing this inspect the skeg (blade like shape below the prop)
for any excess damage. Also while testing, during the running, make sure
the steering wheel turns easily, the throttle control operates normally and
that all gauges have proper readings. A stiff wheel or control unit could get
into costly repairs later. If the wheel pulls to the left or right at various
speeds, this is considered somewhat normal, and simple adjustments can be made
on the out-drive itself to correct it. An 18 foot should be able to run about
36-38 mph full throttle with a 17" prop on a four cylinder, or just about
40 with a speed prop (19"). Larger cuddy units may have the same speed
even with a larger 8-cylinder engine. A larger engine however on a 18 to 21
foot boat can boost speeds typically up to 50 to 60 MPH. Higher on Magnums etc.
Check around the hull for any stress cracks, under hull damage, and pay close
attention to the rear of the haul near the engine. If the unit checks out then
you will have a good used boat. If you have any questions about any of the manufacturer
of a used boat then be sure to visit Rec.Boatsnewsgroup
for non biased postings on various manufacturers.
Tow
Vehicles
Consult with the manufacture of your vehicle on its towing
capacity. A PWC will tow behind most any vehicle with any type of hitch
including a Class I or bumper hitch. A small fishing boat, row boat or boats
16' or less can be towed with most any vehicle capable of towing 2000 pounds
(such as a Dodge Intrepid) on a Class II hitch. An 18' up would be towed behind
a larger vehicle with a Class II or III hitch. Most mini vans and larger full
size cars capable of towing 3500 pounds are adequate for short towing runs on
an 18' and in many cases up to a 21' boat. On larger boats especially on Cuddys
over 21 feet or over 3500 pounds you will need a Class III hitch. This
also means a larger towing vehicle such as a Suburban, 1/2 , 3/4 or 1 ton pick
up four wheel drive utility or van. When you get into boats that weight more
that 3500 pounds loaded with fuel etc. it is important to pay close attention
to vehicle detail, such as making sure the gear ratio in the transmission is
proper, and you don't exceed the GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating or the combined
total weight of both tow vehicle and boat), the tongue weight is proper
and proper recommendations are being made on trailer brakes. For example
if you own a Chevy Suburban and it has a V8 7.4 Vortec Engine, LT245/75R tires
and a 4.10:1 transmission ratio, you should be able to tow about a 8000 to 9000
pound boat, or 26 foot plus size. The smaller the boat and weight the tougher
terrain you can pull on. There are hundreds of variables. If you plan on a large
boat, plan on buying a large towing vehicle, (unless you plan to leave it docked
year round). Once again on any size boat purchase check with your manufacture
on the towing capacity (specs on towing can be found in most owners manuals).
Have a towing package installed (if not equipped) , including hitch, wiring,
shocks, and transmission cooler. Always buy a vehicle that is capable of towing
more than you are planing on buying, this leaves room for extra luggage etc.
and possible upgrades of boats in the future.
I
have the rig now, how do I tow?
When you have your rig the first thing to do is practice
towing . An empty parking lot is ideal to get the feel of towing. Practice turning
to get the feel of the turning ratios, and especially, backing. When backing
turn the bottom of the steering wheel the same direction that you want the boat
to move. Do not back up faster than walking pace! You may find yourself
in a jackknife and inflict damage to both the tow vehicle and trailer. Practice
backing into a parking space. If possible back at walking pace around a complete
parking lot. One old trick is to imagine the tow vehicle is following the trailer,
try to steer as if the tow vehicle is reacting to where the boat is heading,
allowing for smooth turning. When you are comfortable with your rig keep in
mind that again turing ratios and backing are all together different then driving
without a trailer, you don't hug a curve or pull tight into a gas station while
towing, you have to drive as if you are driving a school bus as far as turning
is concerned. After practicing you will be ready for the towing to the ramps
and backing in!.
I
am ready for my first trip out what do I need?
Number one now is safety. Make sure your new or used boat
have the proper required safety devices. Most states require proper life jackets
(see below) one for each passenger (plus a throw able), SOS flag, horn, navigation
lighting, fire extinguisher SOS pyro device (three marine flares ideal), bilge
pumps and blower for Inboards and I/Os. Other suggestions though not required
in most states include; a compass, a marine first aid kit (including sunblock
and insect repellent), marine radio (currently have free licensing), GPS
for navigation on larger bodies of water, depth sounder, tools, and a quart
of oil / gear oil and grease gun. Back to Life jackets. There
are several types of life jackets. Type I PFD, or Off-Shore Life
Jacket -provides the most buoyancy. It is effective for all waters, especially
open, rough or remote waters where rescue may be delayed. It is designed to
turn most unconscious wearers in the water to a face-up position. The Type I
comes in two sizes. The adult size provides at least 22 pounds buoyancy, the
child size provides at least 11 pounds of buoyancy. Type II PFD, Near-Shore
Buoyancy Vest, -is intended for calm, inland water where there is a good chance
for a quick rescue. This type will turn some unconscious wearers to a face-up
position in the water. The turning action is not as pronounced and it will not
turn as many persons to a face-up position under the same conditions as the
Type I. An Adult size device provides at least 15 1/2 pounds of buoyancy, a
medium child provides 11. Infant and small child sizes each provide at least
7 pounds buoyancy. Type III PFD, or Floatation Aid -is good for calm,
inland water, or where there is a good chance of a quick rescue. It is designed
so wearers can place themselves in a face-up position in the water. The wearer
may have to tilt their head back to avoid turning face-down in the water. The
Type III has the same minimum buoyancy as a Type II PFD. It comes in many styles,
shapes, colors and sizes and is generally the most comfortable type for continuous
wear. Float coats, fishing vest, and vests designed with features suitable for
various sports activities are examples of this type of PFD. Type IV PFD,
or Throw-able Device -is intended for calm, inland water with heavy boat traffic,
where help is always present. It is designed to be thrown to a person in the
water and grasped and held by the user until rescued. It is not designed to
be worn. Type IV devices include buoyant cushions, ring buoys, and horseshoe
buoys. Type V PFD, or Special Use Device -is intended for specific activities
and may be carried instead of another PFD only if used according to the approval
condition on the label. Some Type V devices provide significant hypothermia
protection. Varieties include deck suits, work vests, board sailing vests and
Hybrid PFDs. Type V Hybrid Inflatable PFD -is the least bulky of all
PFD types. It contains a small amount of inherent buoyancy, and an inflatable
chamber. Its performance is equal to a Type I, II or III PFD (as noted on the
PFD label) when inflated. Hybrid PFDs must be worn when underway to be acceptable.
A water skier, is considered on board the vessel and a PFD is required for the
purposes of compliance with the PFD carriage requirements. It is advisable and
recommended for a skier to wear a PFD designed to withstand the impact of hitting
the water at high speed. "Impact Class" marking on the label refers
to the PFD strength, not personal protection. Most states require a skier to
wear a PFD as well as knee boards and inflatable devices such as tubes or sit-on
devices.
Are
there any safety courses recommended?
A Boating Safety Course is a must and features not only
safety information, but training on the regulations and proper boating procedures
when it comes to navigation, understanding buoys (floating markers indicating
dangerous shallow spots, dams, swim and ski zones etc.). A Coast Guard approved
safety course is available in all 50 states and Provinces in Canada. Check the
search engines for a course near you. Though this course is not required by
law in most states, it once again is highly advisable and will make your boating
trips more pleasant.
Once
I have all safety accessories what other accessories do I need?
As for the boat itself bumpers are a great idea to reduce
scratches on the gelcoat. Otherwise on a typical outing it is a good idea
to have once again sunblock, any charts you might have obtained on the lake
you are running, your fishing rod (plus license), tackle box (and
night crawlers), a cooler for of cold non-alcoholic drinks, sandwiches,
munchies items, (you will get hungry especially if you are swimming) or
something in a thermos bottle (if the weather is cold). Don't forget towels,
proper water sports items such as skis, inflatable tubes etc., whatever your
family likes to do. If you have small children it is fun to have a whittle ball
or frisbee to keep them busy while stopping at the beach. Cameras are also a
must for taking a picture of that big one you caught!.
How
do I pick a lake to run on.
Before you head out to any lake it is important to make
sure it has the proper horsepower restrictions. Many lakes are unlimited, but
some are regulated to lower speeds or lower horsepower engines. Check with Boating
America's Lakes and River site for a phone number and information on great lakes
for outings in 49 of the 50 states. Once you have selected the lake to run on
the next process is prepping the boat and ramping.
What
are good Prepping / Ramping Procedures?
Fuel up at a gas station on the way to the lake. Once
at the lake, and you are in a ramp area, the first thing to do is pull
the cover off of your boat, start your blower (on I/O), put in the drain plug,
put in any manifold plugs (if you remove them to drain
your manifold after running), disconnect your support straps that attaches the
stern of the boat to the trailer, and make sure all accessories are on board.
After your blower has run for at least 5-minutes clearing any gas fumes out
of the engine compartment it is time to back your boat into the water. On average
ramps back your boat slowly into the water just to the point that your rear
tow vehicle wheels is just outside of the water. Your boat should float off
the trailer. If you are trailering by yourself, lock your brakes on the
tow vehicle, get in the boat, lower your engine, push your gear release
and push your throttle forward and crank the engine running the throttle like
a gas pedal in a car. Once the engine is running smooth, release the trailer
from the boat by disconnecting the bow cleat and you are off. Back the boat
and carefully pull it into a temporary tie up and then park your vehicle. If
there are more than one with you and another person has boating experience,
there would be no reason to leave your tow vehicle while starting your boat.
It also saves time at the ramps. Have one in the boat to start and back while
submersing.
I
am off ! How do I Navigate?
When you pull out of the ramping area the first thing
to note is the buoy markers. Most boaters don't carry charts on the lakes, and
none may be available, your markers may be your only guidance. Refer
to the Boating America Safety Page for more on Buoy Markers. Stay at a slow
"No Wake" speed (where your boat is not making large waves which you
normally do while running 14 mph and over, thus it is best to idle in
gear). In many states you are responsible for the damage caused by your wake,
the buoys are there to inform you it is safe to now create these waves, but
please use common courtesy towards other boaters. Once you see a row of buoys
indicating a no wake zone and you are on the open water side with no more buoys
ahead then you are ready to open throttle. Your boat will lift its nose running
through the plane (where your vessel will lift out of the water a few inches
while running at higher speeds). If your nose appears to be lifting too much
where it bogs down the engine
lower your trim a few degrees (lower trim will plane faster). Get to know the
lake by running around it. Notice other boaters, always keep in eye out. If
coming onto a sail boat do not run in front of it, turn behind it as a
courtesy, (sailboaters have more trouble maneuvering). If other boaters are
water skiing stay well away (states have set guidelines when following
a skier, some impose to stay 100 feet to 100 yards in clearance). If you
plan on pulling a skier use the counter clockwise rule, (unless otherwise
noted), and pull counter clock wise around the lake. It is also a good
idea to set your GPS marking points near the ramping area especially if you
are on a large lake and may have trouble finding your way back. Also mark any
beaches and marina for precious fuel.
Refueling
Procedures?
Once fuel is needed and you are at the marina, shut off
all power. Put out any cigarettes at this point!. Open your engine cover
on I/Os (good time to check the oils). Smell for any excess gas fumes (there
will always be some fumes, but should not be any excess where you will notice
a strong gas odor). Un-screw your gas cap and touch the gas pump hose against
the metal of the gas cap to ground out any static electricity, then pump the
fuel in. It is not recommended to "topoff " the tank. Watch your fuel
gauge instead for a full reading. (on outboards be sure to check you r oil mixture
levels). Rescrew the gas cap, pay the attendant, start your blower, check
again for excess smell, lower the engine hatch and you are ready for more boating!.
One more note, it is much safer to refuel in a breeze then a calm day, wind
will break up gas fumes very quickly.
Trailering
Trailering is the hardest part to boating. Ramp
courtesy should be followed during peak ramping times that occur usually on
weekends. The most courteous option is to drop off the tow driver at the
ramp and wait near by until the trailer is backed down to the ramp. The trailer
should be backed so the bow will be completely out of the water when the boat
is completely on the trailer. If you have carpet have the driver back the trailer
in until about a foot is showing. This helps to align the boat on the
trailer so it will not rest off center once out of the water. If you have a
rollers back until the front four are all that's left out of the water.
Idle the boat towards the trailer centering on the winch, and once stopped,
attach the line and winch the boat up on the last foot or so, shut the engine
down, TILT UP THE MOTOR, and you are ready to pull out. If you are alone or
do not have a tow vehicle driver, simply tie up at a temporary tie up, back
the tow vehicle in (same procedures), go back to the boat and pull onto the
trailer, (you may have to leave a little forward engine thrust running in order
to get up to the bow and winch up). Shut down, tilt out and hop in the vehicle
and pull out.
Packing
Up
Once you are in a trailer parking space, the first thing
to do is to wipe down the boat with a soft towel to remove water spots and lake
film that accumulates on the side of the boat. Its a good idea to do this first
since the hull is still wet. It will help keep your craft shiny for years. There
are different engine procedures for various manufactures. On many I/Os its a
good idea to disconnect the speedometer hose and let the water drain out (which
helps clear the line for any debris). On lakes where Zebra Muzzles are a problem
it is also a good idea to drain your exhaust manifold once the engine has cooled.
Two plugs can be found on Mercruiser In line type manifolds located on the right
facing back to the engine just under the manifold. They are made of brass and
can be turned easily with a wrench. Water should freely run out, if not you
have accumulated sediment and therefore you can use a small screwdriver to push
any sediment out of the way to let the water out. It is also good procedure
to do this at freezing temperatures to prevent engine damage from freeze up.
V6 and V8 engines have exhaust manifolds on both sides, check your maintenance
book for this procedure. Other manifolds do not cool with lake water and
have there own reservoir, these should not be drained until winterization, again
consult with your dealer or owners manual. With the internal engine dry muzzles
have more problems developing and usually will not spread unless submerged
for a long period of time. Next unscrew the drain plug in the back of the hull
just below your engine and let the water out that has acclimated in the bilge.
It is also a good idea to periodically check the bilge pump which will also
help to drain the water out. Also check your outdrive or gear drive oils, and
engine oil on I/Os. Shut down all the electricity (depth sounders etc.) so that
your battery will be ready for the next run. You may also want to tidy up more
with windex on the windows, vacuum the carpet etc. Next cover your boat. Replace
the strap on the rear of the boat and check the winch on the front to make sure
it is locked. On trailers with rollers make sure the chain is attached to the
winch. Last but not least check your lights and your bearings, or Bearing
Buddies to make sure there is grease tension. If necessary inject
one or two pumps of grease into the bearings with a grease gun, (but not too
much so that the bearing buddies will push out all the way, they should
only pop up just a little or you will find grease all over your trailer wheels
after towing). Next, the trip home.
Storage. It is a must to keep your boat covered when ever its not in use. A mooring cover is offered by your dealer and will protect the entire boat. In most cases, unless storing it in a garage, it is the only protection from the elements. Its also a good idea to trailer with your cover on reducing wind drag and preventing loss of items in the boat. For prolong storage or winter storage refer to winterizing in your manuals or the Boating Tips and Parts Page on this site if no suck manuals are available. Also cover any exhaust ports in the outdrive or engine areas so small animals don't nest in or around your engine. Boating America will have more information on winter storage in the fall.
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